Discover Almaty: 3 Days of Wellness, Wine, and Stunning Landscapes

Sam Burden
Sep 10
8 min read

Earlier this year, I traveled through the “three Stans”: Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Kazakhstan, finishing my journey in Almaty, Kazakhstan’s largest city and cultural hub.

Traveling to Almaty

I traveled from Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan, to Almaty by private taxi. While convenient, I ended up paying 80 pounds — far more than the bus from the new Bishkek bus terminal, which costs around 18 pounds. If you’re planning this route, I highly recommend taking the bus for a cheaper and reliable option.

Day 1 – Arrival & Arasan Wellness Spa

I arrived in Almaty in the early evening. The city immediately felt modern yet approachable, with wide streets, leafy parks, and the Tian Shan Mountains looming in the distance. The mix of Soviet-era architecture and sleek modern buildings gives the city a unique character, and the city hums with energy yet feels relaxed.

Rather than diving straight into sightseeing, I headed to Arasan Wellness & Spa, one of Almaty’s most famous bathhouses:

Cost: 3,200 KZT for one-hour entry (~£4.42)
Extras: Facial (5,500 KZT, ~£7.60), head & back massage (12,000 KZT, ~£16.60)
Facilities: Multiple saunas, including Russian and Swedish styles

The Russian sauna, infused with eucalyptus aroma, was my favourite. The contrast of cold plunge pools and steaming saunas, the scent of natural oils, and the quiet hum of relaxation created a soothing atmosphere. The massages are firm, almost deep tissue — very different from Western spas, but incredibly rejuvenating.

Tip: Bring a swimming cap and slippers for the pools. Bathing etiquette is important here — rinse before entering pools, and enjoy quiet relaxation areas after saunas.

Ending the first day with a soak, massage, and facial was the perfect way to recover from travel and prepare for a busy city tour ahead.

Illuminated building entrance with "Arasan Since 1982" sign. A person stands on steps, car parked nearby. Evening sky, calm atmosphere.

Day 2 – Guided Tour of Almaty

Day two was a guided city tour, showing why Almaty is unique. The city has a modern, cosmopolitan vibe but remains green, approachable, and framed by mountains.

Urban street with cars at an intersection, surrounded by green trees. Snow-capped mountain in the background, cloudy sky, and traffic signs visible.

Zhybek Zholy Metro Station – The Silk Road Legacy

One of the first stops on the metro was Zhybek Zholy Station, which literally translates to “Silk Road.” The station is more than just a transport hub — it’s a tribute to Almaty’s historical importance as a key point on the legendary Silk Road, where merchants travelled for centuries exchanging silk, spices, tea, and ideas between East and West.

The station walls are adorned with mosaics and murals depicting caravans, ancient trade routes, and local landscapes, providing a fascinating glimpse into the region’s rich history. Walking through, I imagined bustling markets filled with traders, horses, and exotic goods — a sharp contrast to today’s clean, modern metro.

Person with backpack admiring a colorful mural depicting historical scenes on a tiled wall. Soft lighting from overhead lights.

This stop was a reminder that Almaty is not just a city of modern architecture and leafy parks; it is a living link between ancient traditions and contemporary life.

Panfilov Park & Ascension Cathedral

We started at Panfilov Park, a peaceful urban oasis with locals, street musicians, and families. At the park’s center stands the Ascension Cathedral (Zenkov Cathedral). Built entirely of wood without nails, its yellow walls and colorful domes gleam in sunlight. Inside, the soaring ceilings and intricate iconography are breathtaking.

People stand outside a colorful, intricate cathedral with domes and spires, surrounded by trees and pigeons under a cloudy sky.

Memorial of Glory

Next, we visited the Memorial of Glory, a WWII monument with towering bronze sculptures and the Eternal Flame — a quiet reminder of Kazakhstan people’s history and resilience.

Monument featuring soldiers in dynamic poses, set in a green park with trees. Russian text on a stone base. Sky is partly cloudy.

Rakhat Confectionery Factory

One of the highlights of the tour was visiting the Rakhat Confectionery Factory, one of Kazakhstan’s oldest and most famous chocolate producers. Founded in 1942 during the Soviet era, Rakhat became a cornerstone of Kazakhstan’s confectionery industry. Unlike Western chocolate brands, which emphasise mass production and standardised flavours, Rakhat combines traditional recipes with local ingredients, giving its sweets a distinctive taste that reflects the region’s culture and palate.

Two people with backpacks walk by the "Lotte Rakhat" sign outside a building. Green bushes line the path under a partly cloudy sky.

The factory produces a wide variety of confections, from milky chocolates and nutty bars to unique local sweets. I tried the peanut chocolate bar, which was rich, slightly less sweet than typical Western chocolate, and had a delicate roasted flavour that lingered on the palate. The texture is denser and creamier than most Western brands, likely because of less emphasis on aeration and more on natural ingredients.

Walking through the factory and seeing the production process, I learned how Rakhat maintains a careful balance between traditional craftsmanship and modern production techniques. Visiting Rakhat isn’t just about tasting chocolate — it’s a glimpse into Kazakhstan’s industrial and cultural heritage, with small local variations like nuts, dried fruits, or spices making each confection unique.

Green Bazaar

Our final city stop was the Green Bazaar, Almaty’s bustling food market. Walking through, the aromas hit you first — a mix of spices, fresh bread, nuts, and sweet dried fruits. The market is a vibrant hub of daily life where locals shop, vendors call out their goods, and the colours and textures of Central Asia are on full display.

Stalls overflowed with spices, dried fruits, nuts, cheeses, meats, and fresh produce, showcasing both traditional Kazakh ingredients and imported goods from neighbouring countries. I sampled:

Kumis (fermented horse milk): Slightly sour and fizzy — an acquired taste for outsiders.
Zhent: Millet-based sweet, nutty and chewy, often made for celebrations.
Honey cheese: Creamy, slightly sweet, often eaten with bread or fruit.
Kumis (fermented horse milk) — traditional, though not my favorite
Zhent — a millet-based sweet, delicious and nutty
Honey cheese — creamy and subtly sweet

Market scene with various food items in plastic containers on a counter. A person holds a note. Brightly lit background with produce.

Beyond the food, I loved observing the interactions: elderly women bargaining for spices, children running between stalls, and shopkeepers proudly explaining their products. It’s a sensory immersion into Almaty’s everyday life and culinary culture.

Lunch at Navat

After wandering the bazaar, we headed to Navat, a cosy restaurant adorned with traditional Kazakh décor. The menu was a treat for vegetarians, highlighting local ingredients and flavours. My lunch included:

Lentil soup: Hearty and comforting.
Lagman noodles: Soft, hand-pulled noodles served with vegetables in a savoury sauce.
Beetroot salad: Fresh, slightly sweet, and tangy.
Bread: Traditional, baked daily, soft on the inside and slightly crisp on the outside.
Fruity tea: Served hot, with hints of local fruits and herbs — a Kazakh tradition.

Cozy cafe interior with colorful lanterns and patterned rugs. People sitting at a window table, large chandeliers above, plants around.

The meal felt wholesome and satisfying, and the atmosphere of the restaurant — wooden tables, patterned textiles, and soft lighting — made it an ideal midday respite.

Afternoon – Wine Tasting at Arba

The day ended with a wine tasting at Arba, a charming venue that showcases Kazakhstan’s surprisingly sophisticated wine culture. The interior was warm and inviting, with rustic wooden tables and soft music that complemented the tasting experience.

I sampled:

Altyn Arba Chardonnay Reserve 2017: Crisp and elegant, with subtle oak notes.
Lagyl Arba Saperavi Old Tradition 2017: Rich, full-bodied, with dark berry flavours.
Ak Bastau Prima 2017: Smooth, balanced, with a hint of spice.

Person sitting on a beige sofa in a cozy room, examining wine glasses on a wooden table. Bright window light, decorative pillow with "WINE".

Tasting these wines gave me a deeper appreciation for Kazakhstan’s emerging viticulture, and it was a relaxing way to wind down after a busy day of sightseeing. The combination of flavours, aromas, and ambience made it a memorable experience, blending local culture with sensory delight.

Day 3 – Kolsai, Kaindy & Charyn Canyon

Day three was a 12-hour adventure, taking me into Kazakhstan’s mountains — the highlight of the trip.

Black Canyon

I started early with a visit to the Black Canyon, a narrower and more dramatic section of Charyn Canyon. Its steep, dark cliffs towered over the trail, creating a more intense and intimate atmosphere compared to the broader sections of the canyon. Walking along the trail, the shadows of the cliffs shifted with the morning light, highlighting the rugged textures and deep crevices. The sense of scale and isolation was breathtaking, and the echo of the wind and occasional birdcalls added to the feeling of being somewhere truly remote and wild.

Vast canyon landscape with a winding river, rugged cliffs, and distant rolling hills. A person stands on the right cliff, small against the scene.

Kolsai Lakes

After exploring the Black Canyon, we continued to the Kolsai Lakes, alpine lakes nestled among pine forests. Short hikes around the first lake are ideal for photography and soaking in the serenity. The crystal-clear waters reflect the surrounding peaks, and the pine-scented air is invigorating. Birds chirp overhead, and occasionally you spot locals fishing or children riding horses along the shore. The peaceful atmosphere provides a perfect contrast to the dramatic intensity of the Black Canyon.

Mountain lake scene with tall evergreen trees and snowy peaks. A log lies on a slope by the water. Overcast sky sets a serene mood.

Kaindy Lake & 4x4 Adventure

From Kolsai, we switched to a specialist 4x4 vehicle for Kaindy Lake. The terrain was steep and rugged, impossible for a regular car. The ride was thrilling, with narrow ridges, river crossings, and sharp bends.

Rocky path leads to snow-capped mountains with dense pine forests under a clear blue sky. Sparse, leafless shrubs line the foreground.

Kaindy Lake is famous for its sunken forest, with spruce trees rising from turquoise waters — eerie, surreal, and almost magical. Standing at the edge, I felt as if time had paused, leaving only the silent trees and sparkling water.

Turquoise lake with submerged tree trunks, surrounded by dense pine forest and mountains. Sunlight creates a serene atmosphere.

Roadside Meal

After Kaindy, we stopped for a roadside vegetarian meal: plov with salad and bread. The aroma of rice and vegetables and the crispy bread made for a simple yet satisfying lunch. Roadside stops like this also give insight into local food culture and how travellers refuel in the mountains.

Two styrofoam trays on a wooden table; one with colorful salad, the other with yellow rice and veggies, and a plastic fork. Tea bag labeled "BAYCE".

Charyn Canyon

The final stop was was Charyn Canyon, stretching nearly 80 km. Its red cliffs rise dramatically from the valley floor. The Valley of Castles is stunning, with jagged formations shaped by centuries of erosion. The wind whistles through the canyon, echoing off the rocks, and the sun casts dramatic shadows across the cliffs.

A narrow dirt road winds through a canyon with rugged red rock formations and patches of greenery under a partly cloudy sky.

My three days in Almaty were a perfect blend of culture, history, nature, and relaxation. From the vibrant energy of Panfilov Park, the architectural wonder of Ascension Cathedral, and the rich flavours of the Green Bazaar, to the indulgence of Arasan Wellness Spa and the sophisticated Kazakh wines at Arba, the city offers something for every traveller.

The surrounding mountains provided unforgettable adventures: the dramatic Black Canyon, the serene Kolsai Lakes, the surreal Kaindy Lake, and the stunning formations of Charyn Canyon highlighted the country’s incredible natural diversity.

Almaty is a city that surprises and delights — its friendly people, fascinating history, and accessible transport make it an ideal gateway to Kazakhstan. Whether you’re a foodie, a nature lover, or simply curious about Central Asia, Almaty promises experiences that stay with you long after you leave.

Budget

Item	Cost (KZT)	Cost (£)	Notes
Metro transport	5 rides × 150 KZT = 750 KZT	£1.04	5 trips on Almaty Metro
Arasan Wellness & Spa	3,200 KZT	£4.42	1-hour entry
Facial & Massage at Arasan	5,500 + 12,000 = 17,500 KZT	£24.15	Facial + head & back massage
Lunches	—	£25	Approximate daily cost
Almaty city tour with lunch	—	£43	Guided tour including lunch
Charyn Canyon and Lakes Tour	—	£43	Full-day city tour including lunch
Private taxi Bishkek → Almaty	—	£80	Optional; bus cheaper (~£18)
Accommodation	—	£35	3 nights, breakfast included at Tomiris Lady’s Capsule Hotel
Misc/Extras	—	£20	Snacks, drinks, souvenirs

Estimated Total: ~£275 (including taxi)

Practical Travel Tips

Kazakhstan Currency: The local currency is the Tenge (KZT). Cash is especially useful in markets and smaller shops, though cards are widely accepted in hotels and many restaurants. As a rough guide, 1,000 KZT is about £1.38, so smaller transactions are very affordable. Always check the latest exchange rates before traveling, as they can fluctuate.

Can Kazakhstani people speak English? English is limited outside tourist areas; Russian and Kazakh dominate.

Is Kazakhstan safe to travel? Yes — I never felt unsafe.

Kazakhstan food for vegetarians: Traditional dishes such as lagman, plov, lentil soup, salads, bread, and a variety of teas are widely available. While many “Stan” countries have historically had a meat-heavy diet due to their nomadic lifestyle, there are plenty of vegetarian-friendly options, especially in city restaurants and markets.

Weather: Continental — hot summers, cold winters; spring and autumn are ideal.

Getting Around – Almaty’s Metro

Almaty’s metro system was a pleasant surprise. Beautifully decorated with mosaics, marble, and Kazakh-inspired motifs, it feels like an underground gallery.

Cost: 150 KZT per ride (~£0.20)
Ease: Only one line — impossible to get lost
Coverage: Connects most major attractions
Yandex Taxi: Essential for early starts or late returns; reliable and shows fares upfront

Returning Home

I flew back to the UK from Almaty to Heathrow via Istanbul with Turkish Airlines, a smooth and comfortable journey after three busy days exploring the city and mountains.

Where to Stay

For my three-day stay, I stayed at Tomiris Lady’s Capsule Hotel, a women-only hostel in the city centre, about a 10 minute walk from Baikonur Metro Station. It was an excellent choice for comfort and convenience:

Cost: £35 for three nights, including breakfast
Location: Central, within walking distance of Panfilov Park, Green Bazaar, and main shopping streets
Amenities: Modern capsule rooms, cozy common areas, and a simple breakfast featuring fresh cakes and tea — a sweet way to start the day