How I (Almost) Conquered the Camino de Santiago in Two Days — And Learned the Hard Way It’s a Lie

Walking the Camino de Santiago — often simply called the Camino — is one of the world’s most famous pilgrimages. Every year, hundreds of thousands of people from across the globe set out on its ancient trails, following the iconic yellow arrows and scallop shell markers that point the way to the magnificent cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, Spain.

For some, the Camino is a religious act of devotion. For others, it’s a cultural experience, a chance to enjoy Spain’s landscapes, or simply a physical challenge. For me, it was supposed to be a quick test of endurance — an ambitious plan to cover in two days what most pilgrims take several days to complete.

Spoiler: I didn’t make it. But the Camino gave me something better — humility, perspective, and a crash course in how not to walk it.

My Camino Begins (With No Map and Too Much Confidence)

I flew from London Gatwick into Santiago de Compostela, buzzing with optimism. My plan was reckless but thrilling: take the train to Pontevedra, walk all the way to Padrón on day one, and finish in Santiago on day two. Easy, right?

After catching the number 6A bus from the airport to the centre of town, I checked into Loop Hostel, one of the most popular places in town for pilgrims. The atmosphere was electric — strangers swapping Camino stories over shared meals, backpacks stacked by the door, the hum of excitement filling the air. That night, I fell asleep to the sound of clinking cutlery and the faint rustle of maps.

After a good night’s sleep and a quick hostel breakfast, I shouldered my backpack and walked the 20 minutes to Santiago’s train station. Destination: Pontevedra. That’s where my Camino would truly begin.

Here’s the confession: I didn’t even bring a Camino map. Instead, I followed clusters of hikers out of town until I spotted the first scallop shell symbols carved into stone and tiled into the pavement. Alongside the yellow arrows, these shells are the Camino’s guiding lights. As soon as I saw them, I knew: I was officially on my way.

The Camino: What It Really Means

Before diving deeper into my tale of blisters and mistakes, let’s step back. What does Camino actually mean?

In Spanish, camino translates to “way” or “path.” The phrase Camino de Santiago literally means “the Way of Saint James.” It refers to the pilgrimage routes that all converge on the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, where the remains of Saint James the Apostle are said to rest.

The Camino pilgrimage has been walked for over a thousand years. In medieval times, pilgrims came seeking forgiveness, healing, or miracles. Today, motivations vary: some walk for faith, others for personal growth, and many just for the joy of long-distance travel.

No matter the reason, the Camino offers more than just miles. It offers lessons in patience, resilience, and connection — lessons I was about to learn the hard way.

Which Camino Should I Walk?

When planning, one of the first questions is always:

• Which Camino route is best for first-time walkers?

• Which Camino should I walk?

  
  

There isn’t just one Camino. There are many Camino routes, each with its own character, distances, and challenges. Here are the main ones:

1. Camino Francés (French Way) – The most famous route, stretching 500 miles (800 km) from St. Jean Pied de Port in France to Santiago. Takes 4–6 weeks. Perfect for beginners who want the “classic” Camino.

2. Camino Portugués (Portuguese Way) – From Lisbon or Porto. The Porto-to-Santiago stretch is around 150 miles (240 km) and takes 10–14 days. A bit less crowded, with beautiful coastal and inland variations.

3. Camino Inglés (English Way) – From Ferrol or A Coruña. The Ferrol start is 70 miles (120 km) and takes 5–7 days. A great short option, historically used by pilgrims from England.

4. Camino del Norte (Northern Way) – Rugged, coastal, and stunning. About 510 miles (820 km), usually 5–7 weeks. Less crowded but tougher terrain.

5. Camino Primitivo (Original Way) – Around 200 miles (320 km), starting in Oviedo. The oldest Camino route, known for being challenging but deeply rewarding.

6. Via de la Plata – The longest, from Seville north to Santiago: 620 miles (1,000 km), taking up to 60 days.

   
   

   

   Image from Pilgrim.es

For first-time pilgrims, the Camino Francés or the shorter Camino Inglés are often recommended. They have plenty of infrastructure, clear markers, and a strong pilgrim community.

Camino Distances: How Far, How Long?

A big part of Camino planning is figuring out:

• Camino how many miles?

• Camino how long does it take?

Here’s a quick overview:

• Full Camino Francés: 500 miles / 800 km → 4–6 weeks

• Full Camino Portugués (from Porto): 150 miles / 240 km → 10–14 days

• Camino Inglés (from Ferrol): 70 miles / 120 km → 5–7 days

• Pontevedra to Santiago (my route): 37 miles / 60 km → usually 4 days (not 2!)

Image from Julie Dawn Fox in Portugal

On average, most pilgrims cover 12–18 miles (20–28 km) per day. Which is why my plan to crush nearly 40 miles in two days was… let’s say, unrealistic.

Day 1: From Blessings to Blisters

I stepped off the train in Pontevedra, nerves and excitement buzzing in equal measure.

Before setting off, I ducked into the Igrexa de Santa María de Alba, a small church where a kind priest named Carlos María offered me a blessing. I wasn’t religious, but at that moment

I was grateful — I would need all the help I could get.

The first stretch was magical. Vineyards, lush forests, stone villages, the soft crunch of gravel underfoot. Pilgrims greeted each other with the cheerful “Buen Camino!” and I awkwardly responded “Ola” until an American couple explained the etiquette. Lesson one: Buen Camino isn’t just a greeting. It’s a shared wish, a little push of encouragement between strangers on the same road.

Around midday, I paused at a roadside café for a pilgrim’s lunch: a steaming bowl of vegetarian Galician lentil soup, crusty bread, and a shot of strong coffee. Simple, hearty, unforgettable.

But by late afternoon, reality caught up.

• Mistake #1: I hadn’t broken in my boots. By mile 12 when I arrived in Caldas de Reis, my feet were raw and blistered.

• Mistake #2: I switched to sandals, which only added to the damage.

• Mistake #3: I hadn’t packed enough water. The last 10 miles offered no fountains, no toilets. Let’s just say I learned what “bush breaks” mean.

• Mistake #4: I assumed running fitness would carry me. But walking with a pack for 13 hours is very different from running 10k on a Sunday.

By the time I limped into Padrón at 10:30 PM — after more than 13 hours on the trail — I was broken. And then disaster: my hostel was locked. I’d missed their check-in instructions.

Panic set in, but kindness saved me. Staff from a nearby restaurant, despite speaking little English, helped calm me down and sort out the problem. That’s the Camino for you — the generosity of strangers when you need it most.

Day 2: Defeat on the Rails

The plan had been simple: hike the last 15 miles (25 km) from Padrón to Santiago. But when I woke up, my feet refused. Every blister screamed, every muscle begged for mercy.

Instead, I boarded the train back to Santiago. Tears of disappointment mixed with relief as the landscape blurred past.

I had dreamed of striding into the Plaza del Obradoiro, the cathedral bells ringing, fellow pilgrims cheering. Instead, I limped off a train, humbled. My Camino had ended early, but my lesson had just begun.

How to Actually Walk Pontevedra to Santiago

If you want to do this stretch (and actually enjoy it), here’s a realistic breakdown:

• Day 1: Pontevedra → Caldas de Reis (13 miles / 21 km)

• Day 2: Caldas de Reis → Padrón (11 miles / 18 km)

• Day 3: Padrón → Milladoiro (9 miles / 14 km)

• Day 4: Milladoiro → Santiago (5 miles / 8 km)

That’s how most people do it — manageable chunks, time for breaks, and space to savor the journey.

Camino for Beginners: My Hard-Earned Tips

If you’re new, learn from my mistakes:

1. Don’t rush. The Camino isn’t about speed. Plan 10–15 miles per day.

2. Break in your boots. Do not wear new shoes. Ever.

3. Pack smart (Camino kit list):

   • Backpack (lightweight, max 10% of body weight)

   • Water bottle / hydration pack

   • Snacks (nuts, dried fruit, energy bars)

   • Merino wool socks (blister prevention)

   • Sleeping bag liner (for albergues)

   • First-aid kit (with blister care)

   • Lightweight rain jacket

   • Pilgrim passport (credencial)

4. Learn the greetings. “Buen Camino” is the phrase that bonds pilgrims.

5. Bring a Camino map. Even if you rely on apps, maps help. (Don’t do what I did!)

6. Follow the yellow arrows and shells. They’ve guided pilgrims for centuries.

7. Embrace the community. Locals and fellow pilgrims are your best resource.

   
   

Camino de Santiago Map: Seeing the Big Picture

A Camino de Santiago map shows the spiderweb of routes stretching across Spain and Portugal. From France, from Porto, from Ferrol, from Seville — all paths converge at Santiago’s cathedral.

Standing in the square and looking at that cathedral, you realise: every pilgrim, no matter how far they walked, followed the same dream, the same yellow arrows, the same scallop shells.

Final Thoughts: The Camino Is Not a Lie — My Plan Was

I set out to walk the Camino to Santiago de Compostela in two days. Instead, I learned the most important lesson of the pilgrimage: it’s not about speed, but about surrender.

The Camino isn’t a marathon, and it’s not a race. It’s a journey of body, mind, and spirit.

Whether you take five days on the Camino Inglés, two weeks on the Portuguese Way, or a month on the French Way, the Camino asks you to slow down, listen, and connect.

Next time, I’ll do it right. I’ll break the route into manageable days. I’ll pack a proper Camino kit list. I’ll bring a map. And most importantly, I’ll let the Camino teach me — at its pace, not mine.

Buen Camino. And don’t rush it like I did.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Camino de Santiago

Q: What does “Camino” mean?

A: Camino is the Spanish word for “way” or “path.” The Camino de Santiago means “The Way of Saint James,” referring to the pilgrimage routes that lead to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, where the remains of the Apostle Saint James are said to rest.

Q: Which Camino route is best for first-time pilgrims?

A: Most beginners choose either the Camino Francés (the French Way) or the shorter Camino Inglés (the English Way). The French Way is the most famous and offers the full “classic” Camino experience with excellent infrastructure and a strong pilgrim community. The English Way is much shorter — around 70 miles (120 km) from Ferrol — and can be done in less than a week.

Q: Which Camino should I walk if I have limited time?

A: If you only have a week, the Camino Inglés or the final section of the Camino Portugués (from Porto to Santiago) are popular choices. For a long holiday or sabbatical, the Camino Francés or Camino del Norte give the full long-distance pilgrimage experience.

Q: How many miles is the Camino?

A: It depends on the route:

• Camino Francés: 500 miles (800 km)

• Camino Portugués (from Porto): 150 miles (240 km)

• Camino Inglés (from Ferrol): 70 miles (120 km)

• Camino Primitivo: 200 miles (320 km)

• Via de la Plata: 620 miles (1,000 km)

  
  

Q: How long does the Camino take to walk?

A: Most people walk between 12–18 miles (20–28 km) per day. That means:

• Camino Francés: 4–6 weeks

• Camino Portugués (from Porto): 10–14 days

• Camino Inglés: 5–7 days

• Camino Primitivo: 2–3 weeks

• Via de la Plata: 6–8 weeks

  
  

Q: When is the best time to walk the Camino de Santiago?

A: The most popular seasons are spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) when the weather is pleasant and the trails are busy but not overcrowded. Summer can be very hot and crowded, while winter is quieter but cold, with some albergues closed.

Q: Do you need to be religious to walk the Camino?

A: Not at all. While the Camino began as a Catholic pilgrimage, today many walkers come for cultural, personal, or fitness reasons. The Camino welcomes everyone, whether you walk for faith, adventure, or simply the joy of travel.

Q: Do I need a map to walk the Camino?

A: The Camino is well-marked with yellow arrows and scallop shells, so technically you can follow the trail without a map. However, a Camino map (or an app) helps with planning distances, finding accommodations, and preparing for long stretches with limited facilities.

Q: What should I pack for the Camino?

A: Your Camino kit list should be light and functional. Essentials include: a well-fitted backpack, broken-in hiking boots, water bottle, lightweight rain jacket, merino wool socks, blister kit, sleeping bag liner, and your pilgrim passport (credencial).

Q: How much does it cost to walk the Camino?

A: On average, budget around €30–40 per day for accommodation, food, and small extras if you stay in pilgrim hostels (albergues) and eat the pilgrim menu. Private rooms or hotels will raise the budget.

Q: What is the Camino “yellow arrow”?

A: The yellow arrow is the Camino’s most famous symbol. Painted on walls, roads, and rocks, it guides pilgrims along the route. Along with the scallop shell, it’s the key navigation tool that ensures you don’t get lost.

Q: Can you run the Camino instead of walking it?

A: Yes, but it’s tough. Ultra-runners and endurance athletes sometimes attempt it. However, the Camino is designed to be walked, with towns and albergues spaced for daily walking stages. Running may mean missing out on the slower, community-focused experience.